RESEARCH

HISTORICAL REPORT : AMERICAN FISHING & HUNTING GARMENTS

Published by Eastwood Studio, Research and Archival Creation Workshop

INTRODUCTION

Fishing and hunting clothings are essential pieces of outdoor apparel history, particularly in America from the 1930s to the 1960s. This period marked the height of the development of garments specifically designed to meet the needs of anglers and hunters, with a focus on practicality, durability, and comfort.

In this research work, we will study these factors of evolution and catalog the various designs that emerged during this period. We will also explore how we have incorporated these historical elements into our artisanal creation process.

1.1. Historical Background and Context

The origins of specialized fly fishing jackets can be traced back to the early 1930s, with the first designs emerging in the United States. These initial designs were often inspired by the needs of anglers in the American West, particularly in regions like Montana and Wyoming, where the sport was gaining significant traction. Early adopters of fly fishing were frequently outdoor enthusiasts and guides who required practical solutions to carry essential gear while remaining agile. The first jackets were often modified military or work jackets, which were adapted to include multiple pockets and compartments specifically for fishing tools, flies, and other accessories. These designs quickly became popular due to their practicality and were soon refined into garments that balanced comfort, functionality, and durability. This evolution laid the groundwork for the development of the more advanced and specialized fly fishing jackets seen throughout the 1940s-1950s.

PART I : AMERICAN FLY FISHING JACKETS (1930-1960)

A cutout HBT Coverall from the US army, a great example of military garments reinvented to meet specific needs.

1.2. Design and evolution of the jacket

As the popularity of fly fishing grew, so did the demand for more specialized and efficient gear. Early fly fishing jackets, adapted from military or workwear jackets, set the foundation for a garment that would evolve significantly over the next few decades.

1.2.1. Early Innovations (1930s-1940s)

The first fly fishing jackets were primarily utilitarian, designed to meet the basic needs of anglers. These early jackets featured an array of pockets sewn onto the front and sides, allowing fishermen to carry essential items such as fly boxes, leaders, and small tools. The pockets were strategically placed for easy access, minimizing the need for anglers to reach into a separate bag or box while standing in the water. The materials used were typically heavy-duty canvas or cotton twill, chosen for their durability and ability to withstand the elements. However, these materials, while tough, were not always ideal for comfort, especially when wet.

During the 1940s, manufacturers began to focus on improving the design by incorporating lighter and more breathable fabrics. The use of oiled or waxed cotton became more common, providing a level of water resistance that earlier jackets lacked. Additionally, the number and variety of pockets increased, with some jackts featuring specialized compartments for specific types of flies, tippets, and other accessories. This period also saw the introduction of D-rings* and other attachment points, allowing anglers to clip on additional gear such as nets or hemostats.

*A D-ring is a piece of hardware commonly used in various outdoor and utility gear, including fly fishing jackets. It is called a "D-ring" because of its shape, which resembles the letter "D." These rings are typically made of metal and serve as attachment points for various tools and accessories.

1.2.2. The Golden Age of Design (50s-60s)

1.2.3. When technology meets Outdoor (after 1970s)

The design of fly fishing jackets during this period began to reflect the growing understanding of the needs of different types of anglers. For instance, jackets were developed with specific regions and fishing conditions in mind, such as jackets designed for cold-weather fishing with insulation and wind-resistant materials. This era also saw the advent of the "modular" jacket, where anglers could add or remove pockets and pouches based on their specific needs for a fishing trip.

One of the significant advancements during this period was the introduction of synthetic materials such as nylon, which offered better water resistance and reduced the overall weight of the jackets. Nylon jackets were also more comfortable to wear over long periods, as they dried more quickly and did not become as heavy when wet as their cotton counterparts.

The legacy of these early designs is also evident in the broader category of outdoor and tactical gear, where the concept of a multi-pocket, utility-driven vest has been adapted for various other activities, from hunting and hiking to military and first responder applications.

The 1950s and 1960s marked a golden age in the evolution of fly fishing jackets, as the sport continued to grow in popularity across the United States. By this time, several outdoor companies began to recognize the potential market for specialized fly fishing apparel, leading to the development of more refined and purpose-built designs.

In terms of design, jackets from this era became more streamlined and ergonomic. The layout of pockets was optimized for better weight distribution, reducing strain on the wearer’s shoulders and back. Some jackets featured expandable or pleated pockets, which could hold larger items without bulking up the jacket unnecessarily.

The jackets were characterized by numerous pockets, each designed for a specific use. Upper pockets were often used for flies, with compartments secured by buttons or zippers to prevent small items from falling out.

The jackets were often designed with raglan sleeves to allow greater freedom of movement, essential for casting a fishing line.

Attachments for scissors and pliers were often integrated for quick access to tools. Some jackets also included reinforced areas to carry heavier loads, such as fish or additional gear.

2.1. Historical Background and Context

PART II : THE EVOLUTION OF AMERICAN HUNTING JACKETS

2.2.1. Early Designs (1930s-1940s)

In the 1930s, hunting jackets were typically made from heavy-duty canvas or wool. These materials were chosen for their durability and ability to provide warmth. Early jackets often featured basic designs with large front pockets to carry ammunition and small game. The gibecière was usually a separate bag, slung over the shoulder, which could be cumbersome during long hunts.

2.2.2. Introduction of Integrated Game Pouches

As the need for more practical hunting attire grew, designers began to integrate the gibecière into the hunting jacket itself. This innovation allowed hunters to carry larger game comfortably while keeping their hands free. The game pouch was typically sewn into the back of the jacket, with a wide opening for easy access.

The early integrated designs featured simple flaps or zippers, but as the concept evolved, more sophisticated mechanisms were introduced, such as buttoned closures and waterproof linings. These jackets provided better weight distribution, allowing hunters to carry heavier loads without experiencing as much fatigue.

Signed by: Eastwood Studio, Research and Archival Creation Bureau

One of the most notable innovations in hunting jacket design came from Hinson with their "Bodyguard" model. This jacket, developed in the 1940s and 1950s, featured a large game pocket that covered the entire back of the jacket, which could be accessed by unbuttoning under the collar. This design was revolutionary for several reasons:

2.2.4. Further Innovations (1950s-1960s)

The full-back game pocket provided ample space for carrying large game, effectively distributing the weight across the hunter's shoulders and back. This design minimized strain and allowed hunters to move more freely.

The pocket could be opened and closed by unbuttoning a flap under the collar, which made it easy to load or unload game without removing the jacket. This feature was particularly useful in cold weather, where removing layers could lead to discomfort or exposure.

The Bodyguard jacket was typically made from heavy-duty canvas or duck cloth, with reinforced stitching to handle the weight of the game. The pocket was often lined with waterproof material to prevent blood and fluids from soaking through to the inner layers.

2.2.3. The Bodyguard by Hinson: A Revolutionary Design

RESEARCH

Hunting jackets have been an essential part of the hunter’s gear, evolving significantly from the 1930s to the 1960s to meet the specific needs of outdoor enthusiasts. These jackets were designed to provide warmth, protection, and functionality, integrating features that would make the hunt more efficient and comfortable.

2.2. Design and Evolution of Hunting Jackets

Over the decades, hunting jackets have seen a variety of designs, often driven by the specific needs of hunters and the environments they operated in. One of the most significant innovations in hunting apparel was the integration of the gibecière—a large game pouch—directly into the jacket itself.

As hunting became more popular and widespread in the 1950s and 1960s, hunting jackets continued to evolve. Designers began to experiment with different fabrics, such as lighter-weight canvas and water-resistant treatments, to improve comfort and protection from the elements.

To prevent overheating, some jackets incorporated ventilation mesh under the arms or along the back. Adjustable cuffs, waistbands, and collars became more common, allowing hunters to customize their fit based on layering needs. Some designs included modular or expandable pockets, allowing hunters to adjust the size of their storage based on the day’s hunt.